Enjoying Peace At The Rock
by, 05-24-2013 at 11:08 AM (1899 Views)
We wanted an "escape" and some time to "defrag and reboot" our brains when we selected Morgan's Rock.
The location provided a substantial amount of remoteness....along the Pacific coast of southern Nicaragua and surrounded by more than 4,000 acres of mostly dry tropical forests.
The accommodations were splendid in their simplicity....spacious bungalows constructed of native hardwoods with incredible unobstructed sweeping views of the ocean and beach below.
Many visitors to this region, stay in and around San Juan del Sur...a quiet beach town which seems to attract surfers from many parts of the world (several small 3 and 4 star hotels, lots of hostels and even small temporary tent communities along the best surfing beaches).
Morgan's Rock more or less proved to be in a category unto its own.....not an attempt at a grand five star hotel, but rather a well thought out opportunity to experience a quiet, evolving ecosystem and a first rate demonstration at sustainability. It only takes a few strides away from the reception area to become engulfed in minimal human development and a substantially untouched natural habitat.
We were fortunate to be there just as the dry season was transitioning into the wet season (no heavy rains, just a brief morning sprinkle or two). Within two days following our arrival, the previously parched earth and leafless trees were becoming 'alive' with new leaf shoots, tiny buds, ripening fruits and an abundance of ground crabs scurrying about. Perfect weather for early morning treks along the various trails to observe the active troops of Howler and Capuchin monkeys feeding in the dense tree canopies....while the earth and undergrowth provided almost perfect cover for tapirs, anteaters, and iguanas and other crawling things.
Of course, no breakfast at the La Bastide restaurant would be complete without observing the ritualistic morning arrival of Senior Esteban....the resident two toed sloth. He would methodically and ever so slowly descend from the overhead tree limbs and settle into his favorite day time resting spot; a shady palm at the edge of the terrace.
Prior to arrival, we had gained some valuable information from Internet searches and posts of previous visitors. No reasons for us to stay in bungalows 1 or 2 - no view! Avoid bungalows 9 and above, unless multiple daily arduous treks up steep trails are your idea of exercise. We requested (although we were told we could not confirm) accommodations in bungalows 3 through 8....and were fortunate to receive #5.
If you suffer from Entomophobia, then you could feel uncomfortable or down right fearful. There are assorted creepy crawly critters lurking in their natural habitat (we quickly adjusted to the fact we were visitors in their environment and we applied potions and sprays to defend ourselves when needed). From time to time, one or more may very well make their way inside your bungalow - we experienced a few of these visitors, but made short order of escorting them outside.
Most days and every evening we spent on the almost deserted beach (sunsets were magical events, intensified into panoramic murals with the arrival of marine layers). Each afternoon was spent indulging in total relaxation and eliminating clutter from our minds. We indulged in daily luxuriant massage treatments in the palm frond roofed spa atop a hill overlooking the ocean.
Unusual for us to totally kick back, since we tend toward more active adventures in a developing country like Nicaragua, but Morgan's Rock was so peaceful.
We did manage to:
● Do the farm breakfast - nothing beats milking a cow, collecting breakfast eggs from defiant hens and perfecting the art of handmade tortillas. Since we don't usually eat egg yolks, we did give a brief demonstration to farmer's wife on how to separate yolks from whites (the shell to shell method). The breakfast adventure, which seemed mundane in the hotel's written description, proved to be a fun way to start a day.
● We also decided to leave the property one morning and take an excursion down to San Juan del Sur. A very friendly little surfer town, loaded with quirky shops, coffee houses and a surprisingly nice selection of beach front restaurants. We stopped for an enjoyable lunch and drinks at http://www.eltimonsanjuandelsur.com/. On our return to the resort, we passed by a couple of the beaches frequented by surfers.....nice life.
● Departed early from Morgan's Rock and spend most of our day wandering the streets of Granada. Yes, we did hire a horse drawn carriage and of course, we stopped at Dona Elba Cigars (famous for making those 18" monsters smoked by Arnold Schwarzenegger) and had them roll a couple of beauties for a stogie smoking friend back home.
After emerging from many years of internal conflicts and difficulties, Nicaragua is experiencing a major expansion in tourism and beach side mega developments. If you want to interact with an open and friendly people and experience what is really charming about their country, maybe you should plan a visit soon; before every square inch of beach is developed.